Townsend, Montana: Small Town, Big Landscapes, Deep History

By Kilynn Groen with Victor Sample and Rick Graetz

fall colors along the missouri river near townsend, montana

Brushed by the Missouri River, cradled by two mountain ranges, and adorned with a big lake, wildlife management areas, and a historic river, Townsend is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. The scenic beauty of this place in the Missouri River Valley is sure to inspire your next outdoor adventure.

Townsend, the county seat of Broadwater County, is a living testament to Montana’s rich history and vibrant natural beauty. Home to 1,787 people, this picturesque town is about 35 miles southeast of the state capital, Helena. Nestled between the Big Belt and Elkhorn Mountains, the region, often referred to as ‘The Banana Belt’, boasts a milder winter climate compared to its surroundings, making it an ideal destination for travelers.

Chronicles of Montana’s past run deep here.

Captains Lewis and Clark and their Corps of Discovery passed through the future site of the town in 1805. During the evening of July 24, 1805, Lewis penned in his journals …

Wednesday July 24th 1805.

“Set out at sunrise; the current very strong; passed a remarkable bluff of a crimson coloured earth on Stard. Intermixed with Stratas of black and brick red slate. [1]    the valley through which the river passed today is much as that of yesterday, nor is there any difference in the appearance of the mountains; they continue high and seem to rise in some places like an amphitheater, one rang above another as they receive from the river until the most distant and lofty have their tops clad with snow. The adjacent mountains commonly rise so high as to conceal the more distant and lofty mountains from our view.”

Today, these rises are called the Crimson Bluffs and are just south of Townsend on the west side of the Missouri River.

Further upriver The York Islands are also linked to the Expedition. After passing the “Bluffs of red earth,” the explorers came to a portion of the Missouri River characterized by numerous islands and extensive beaver activity.

Lewis wrote: “We saw many beavers and some otter today; the former dam up the small channels of the river between the islands and compel the river in these parts to make other channels; which as soon as it has effected that which was stopped by the beaver becomes dry and is filled up with mud sand gravel and driftwood. the beaver is then compelled to seek another spot for his habitation wher he again erects his dam. thus the river in many places among the clusters of islands is constantly changing the direction of such sluices as the beaver are capable of stoping or of 20 yds. in width. this anamal in that way I beleive to be very instrumental in adding to the number of islands with which we find the river crouded.”

Lewis never named the islands, but Clark listed them on his map as “Yorks 8 Islands”, this after his slave York a member of the Corps.

Historically, Townsend’s roots reach back to the early 19th century. Still, it wasn’t until the late 1860s that the first white settlers migrated here, drawn by the promise of gold. The town officially emerged in 1883 as a rail stop for the Northern Pacific Railroad. It was named in honor of Susan Townsend, the wife of the railroad’s past president, Charles Barstow Wright. This early connection to the railroad helped solidify Townsend as an essential trade center, fostering growth and development.

Placed along the Missouri River also helped, as well as being on a trail that led from the newly minted Last Chance Gulch (Helena) to the Gallatin Valley, where, to feed the miners and prospectors, Montana’s first cultivation began.

Helena, like nearby Diamond City, was founded on gold. Helena quickly became the commercial hub for the new territory, in part owing to its location at a crossroads to the developing gold camps to the south, east, and west. Hence, the passage that led past the new settlement that would become Townsend.

Developing almost overnight, Diamond City had an estimated 10,000 residents by 1867. However, gold ran out quickly, and by 1870, it was gone. Today, nothing is left, but its raucous past is linked to Townsend.

Today, Townsend is celebrated not only for its historical significance but also for its abundance of recreational opportunities. The surrounding landscape offers various outdoor activities, from hiking and fishing to hunting and boating. Nearby Canyon Ferry Lake, Montana’s third-largest body of water, is a popular destination for locals and tourists. Visitors flock to the lake in the summer for swimming, fishing, and boating. At the same time, winter transforms the area into a haven for ice fishing and ice sailing. In the warm season, several Walleye and Perch fishing derbies are held.

Additionally, the south end of Broadwater County contains the highly regarded Copper City Mountain Biking Trails.

The town’s unique character is a blend of ranchers, miners, artists, outdoor enthusiasts, small business owners, and many professionals. This diverse community contributes to the town’s vibrant culture and welcoming atmosphere, making everyone feel at home in Townsend.

In autumn, the annual Fall Festival, drawing around 10,000 attendees, features a car show and music, showcasing the lively community pride. And Edgewater Farms draws large crowds every weekend to a 20-acre corn maze.  The first weekend of August marks the town’s NRA-sanctioned rodeo, and county fair, further highlighting Townsend’s rich cultural traditions.

History enthusiasts can visit the historic St. Joseph’s Catholic Church, the seventh church built in Montana. It opens its doors six times each year during June, July, and August. The Broadwater County Museum showcases exhibits that celebrate the area’s history and its early settlers.

This county seat of Broadwater County has its “own mountain range,” the Big Belts, which ascend rapidly from the valley’s east side.

upland field and the big belt mountains near townsend, montana

The road to the Duck Creek Pass area, northeast of Townsend and above the east side of Canyon Ferry Lake, opens up many areas of the range. From the pass, a trail heads north on the ridgeline to the summits of Boulder Mountain 8,810 and 8,942′ Boulder Baldy, two miles apart. A path drops sharply from the ridge to the two Boulder lakes on the north side of the peaks. This easy-to-reach place is part of the 30,000-acre Camas Creek Roadless Area.

Trekking south from Duck Creek Pass, it’s possible to follow a high divide leading to the summit of Mt. Baldy, 9,181’and then four miles further to 9,504′ Mt. Edith, where mountain goats frequent the tundra-like terrain.

Other trails descend into Birch Creek Basin, the glacial cirque below the north face of the two peaks. A dozen lakes, reached via horseback and hiking paths, are scattered throughout this roadless enclave: Granite spires called The Needles tower above one of the lakes.

Just as prominent as the Big Belts, the Elkhorn Mountains rising on the west are also linked to the quality of life and lifestyle of Townsend. Volcanic activity built these mountains, and because of this process and the fact that they also have sections of sedimentary rocks, they are rich in minerals. A contact zone between sedimentary rocks and igneous intrusions and extrusions forms minerals.

Crow Peak at 9,414 ft and Elkhorn Peak at 9,381 ft. are the highest points, with trails leading to these “twin summits” from the former mining camp of Elkhorn. Plenty of other hiking trails are scattered throughout. And 175,000 acres of the range are designated as the Elkhorn Wildlife Management Area, home to one of Montana’s most productive elk herds.

Unlike the Belts’ orderly northwest-southeast orientation, the Elkhorns are more of a “jumble” of high points and deep canyons. Like the Big Belts, they are very accessible from the Townsend area.

Canyon Ferry Wildlife Management Area, with its almost 6,000 acres, touches the northern reaches of town. Here, the Missouri empties into Canyon Ferry Lake, creating a series of wetlands and man-made waterfowl ponds, popular with birdwatchers. The area is managed for waterfowl, pheasants, and other upland birds, as well as big game, especially moose and whitetail deer. It’s accessible year-round by road and trails. The Indian Road Campground is at the Wildlife Area’s southern edge.

Another asset of the Townsend community is the Missouri River itself. Floating it, especially in a canoe, from the Toston Bridge south of Townsend is a rewarding experience. From the bridge, it is 15 river miles to the Indian Road Campground, a good take-out place. A few campgrounds with launching access are visible for shorter floats from Hwy 287.

Townsend offers motels and restaurants; a list of places is available through the Chamber of Commerce – (406) 266-4101. The US Forest Service map of the Helena and Lewis & Clark National Forest shows the many trails of the Big Belt and Elkhorn mountains. They are available at the Townsend Ranger District (406) 266-3425 ·

With its beautiful landscape, outdoor recreation, and welcoming community, Townsend, Montana, continues to be a vibrant destination for those seeking adventure and a glimpse into the past. Whether exploring its historical sites or enjoying the scenic trails that weave through the mountains, Townsend offers an authentic taste of Montana and its natural splendor.

Photo Credits:

Missouri River and Big Belt Mountains – John Lambing

Historic McCarthy House and Mural on JL Wright’s Trading Post – Rick Graetz